ALIZAH SALARIO, brooklyn, ny

Before giving birth to my first child, I thought I was prepared for breastfeeding and for the incessant hunger that came with it. A friend and mother of three warned me that I’d be hungrier during those first few months of postpartum than I was during my pregnancy. Keep protein-filled snacks near where you plan to nurse, and freeze meals beforehand so you don’t have to worry about cooking at first, she said. I heeded her advice.

During those hazy first days home from the hospital, a gift basket from Russ and Daughters, a New York institution, arrived at my door filled with lox, bagels and a to-die-for chocolate babka. It was truly a gift from the delivery gods, and for the first time in my life, I felt justified in indulging.   

Of course, I wasn’t spoiled for long. Once I was left alone all day with my little one, my ravenous appetite kicked in. We’d take a walk, and after stopping to breastfeed I’d often feel woozy and weak in the knees. Perhaps it was a combination of hunger, low blood sugar or dehydration, but I’d find myself at the nearest deli or cafe scarfing down a mediocre muffin or bagel. Carbs were all I craved, but they left me feeling overly full, unsatisfied and guilty about my unhealthy choices. Before long, I’d be hungry again. I’ve always had physical stamina, and I hated feeling weak. Though I was trying so hard to figure out my daughter’s hunger cues, somehow I’d failed to pick up on my own.

When my mother visited and I complained of exhaustion, she pointed out that according to Greek tradition, new mothers didn’t leave the house for the first 40 days postpartum, during which time they were cared for by friends and relatives, and I should really take it easy. Her lectures were often followed by us towing the baby to a restaurant (we are by no means traditional) but it got me thinking about comfort foods. I found a healthy version of Manestra, a Greek dish made with orzo and tomatoes, that was easy enough to make. It satisfies my carb craving and sustains me even now, during my second pregnancy.     

Alizah’s recipe for Greek Manestra, adapted from The Greek Vegan.

Approximately 4 servings.


INGREDIENTS:

1/3 cup olive oil

1 cup chopped white onion

3 cloves garlic, finely chopped

2 cups whole, peeled roasted tomatoes, fresh or canned. (If canned, discard liquid or set aside for another use).

½ cherry tomatoes, add whole or chopped in half. (Optional, but they give the dish added sweetness)

1 1/2 cups orzo

2 tbsp dried, crushed Greek oregano

1 tsp salt

1 tsp freshly ground pepper

5 cups water

Fresh mint, chopped

Feta, crumbled

Salt and pepper to taste

*Some Greek meat dishes use cinnamon, and I’ve tried adding ⅛ tsp. to bring out the flavors, even though this is a vegetarian dish. For a spicier version, add red pepper flakes.

DIRECTIONS:

Sauté onions and garlic in olive oil over low heat until soft. Add tomatoes and cherry tomatoes, orzo, oregano, salt and pepper, and cinnamon and red pepper flakes, if using. Stir to combine. Cook on low heat for 5 minutes or until tomatoes are soft and mushy. Add water, bring to a gentle boil and turn heat down. Cook gently on low heat for approximately 25 minutes until liquid is mostly absorbed and evaporated. Stir often to make sure your orzo doesn’t stick to the bottom of your pot. Serve with chopped mint and crumbled feta and warm bread or pita on the side.


Alizah is the Arts & Entertainment editor at a community newspaper in Manhattan. She teaches writing at The New School, and lives in Brooklyn with her family.

Posted December 3, 2018